TRAINING FOR AN EXPEDITION

Climbing a high mountain is a serious undertaking, demanding a lot from your body.  This demanding experience can only be fully enjoyed if you have prepared for it.  Physical fitness is one of the subjective factors of mountaineering over which we can exert a great deal of control.  It is especially important for the occasional mountaineer to realize that being fit can make dealing with objective hazards less dangerous.  Your physical capacity for mountaineering is determined primarily by your level of aerobic power and physical strength. You must begin training well in advance of your expedition.  Plan your training a minimum three months and preferably six months before your trip.  Make up a realistic training schedule for yourself, and stick to it!
 
Mountaineering is a physically demanding sport and going on an expedition should be the last place to go get into shape.  Seasoned mountaineers understand this and try to maintain a continual state of fitness.  An unfit climber on an expedition can be a potentially dangerous liability to himself and to the safety and success of the rest of the team members. The fitness level of individual members of an expedition can make or break a climb. Your fitness level can also dictate just how much one will enjoy the experience.

To get the most out of your training efforts design a realistic training program that you can actually do ñ take into account work and family obligations, vacations, and time for rest and recovery.  Write up a schedule in four week blocks, with each successive week slightly harder than the week before and ending with an easier fourth week as a ìrecoveryî period to allow your body time to adapt to the stress of training. As your body begins to respond to exercise you'll need to gradually make training sessions harder to continually stress your body .  The variables you have to work with to alter exercise stress are frequency (how often), duration (how long), and intensity (how hard).

Begin your training program with low key exercise and then gradually build up by adding frequency, duration and intensity (generally in that order).   Do not over-train at the start, but give your body and mind time to adjust to the training stress.  Once you have gotten a good fitness base and you can work out without too much stress, you should increase to 4-6 days a week. Do not try to work out 7 days a week, as your body needs at least one day of rest. As you become accustomed to a daily routine of workouts, add either duration or intensity to make each session progressively harder. By playing with the three exercise variables of frequency, duration, and intensity along with allowing adequate time for rest and recovery, it's possible to design a training program that's enjoyable, lacks monotony, and minimizes the risk of injury or overtraining. After you have trained yourself so you can climb, hike, cycle, ski or whatever for several hours with minimum of fatigue, you will have the self confidence and body awareness for mountaineering.  The harder you train before a climb, the more you will be able to enjoy the experience and the greater will be your chances for success!

Aerobic conditioning for mountaineering should involve long term, sub-maximum heart rate (65-85% of max HR) endurance type activities that stress and develop the cardiovascular system.  Endurance activities that fall into this category include cycling, running, Nordic skiing, brisk walking, swimming, hiking and mountaineering. To be effective, these endurance activities must be done at a constant heart rate (above 65% of max HR) for at least 30-60+ minutes, three to five days a week.  At least one day should include a multi hour effort.  Your maximum heart rate (HR) is roughly 220 less your age, however you should discuss your level of performance and heart rate goals with your personal physician to determine at what level you should be exercising  Your mountaineering endurance program must eventually reflect the long, continuous hours spent climbing a high mountain.  Running a few miles a few miles a week will be of little benefit.
 
In preparing to climb a high mountain like Denali; you should be able to run 6 to 8 miles in under 1 hour or cycle 60 miles in well under 4 hours. This provides a fitness safety margin you will need to have for mountaineering. The level of cardiovascular fitness to handle a 60 minute run requires a minimum of 10 to 12 weeks of training, provided you are not overweight, don't smoke and have been reasonably fit within the last year.  If you are over 30 years old and have been living a sedentary life for more than a year, you should have a complete physical before beginning your training program and you should begin your training program 5-6 months in advance of your expedition.
 
At some point, probably between 150 and 200 miles (roughly 8-10 hrs, 240-322 km) per week of cycling, or 4-6 hrs per week of running, pure aerobic training just isn't enough to continue fitness improvement. You need to add substantial doses of intensity too. Once you reach ìaerobic fitnessî improvement slows dramatically or even reverses unless intervals or other stressful efforts are included in the mix. These interval sessions should start with efforts of moderate duration but high intensity (above 75% max HR). For example, bicycling intervals may start as four to five 5-6 minute efforts with 2-minute recoveries (easy spin). Interval duration should be increased with a steady progression so that the total time of the work intervals reaches 40 to 60 minutes per session. A good progression of workouts might be: 5x6 minutes, 3x10 minutes, 2x15 minutes, 2x20 minutes, 3x15 minutes, etc. These sessions should be completed one to three times per week depending on your overall fitness, experience with high intensity efforts, and how quickly you recover.

Besides aerobic conditioning, strength training is important to prepare your body for climbing steep terrain, carrying a heavy pack, ascending a fixed rope, and dragging a sled. Strength training can entail working out with weights, or climbing up things (hills, mountains, stairs, stair-climbers...) with a pack.  Do not run with a pack as this puts too much impact on your joints.
 
Getting used to carrying a heavy pack is essential for success Denali.  Begin with a light pack and build up to 40 -50 % of your body weight.  Expedition loads may be between 50-80lb. and you must be prepared for this.  Too often we have seen team members who could run for hours, but could not carry a 40 pound pack. Spend at least one day a week carrying a pack.  This will allow you to get used to your pack and fit it to your body. A comfortable fitting pack is essential. Before the Expedition, pack it with all of your personal gear. Does it all fit? You will need strong legs and a strong back to carry a heavy pack so take your preparations seriously! This could be the most important part of your preparation!

Prepare yourself for the added weight of climbing boots, skis, snowshoes, and/or crampons by wearing boots or ankle weights during your weekly training excursions. If you intend to use ski poles during your climb, be sure to train with them as well. Finally, a strong, balanced core (the muscles in and around the trunk of the body) is an important component to handling the physical stress of mountaineering. It's a good idea to add sit-ups, back extensions, and trunk twists (preferably on a ìSwissî ball) to your training routine 2-3 times a week.
 
So begin your training now: take it seriously and enjoy yourself on the mountain! So get that pack out and go for a hike!
             
The following is an example of a training week.  Exercise time should increase as you get stronger.
 
SUNDAY:    Long endurance activity 1-4 hours with light pack (increase pack weight as your strength improves)
MONDAY:   Rest Day
TUESDAY:   Endurance activity of your choice 30-60 minutes.  Cycle, ski, run, stair climber...
WEDNESDAY:   Rest with some stretching or strength training for 30-60 minutes.
THURSDAY:  Activity for 40-60+ minutes Strength and stretching
FRIDAY:          Activity for 30+ minutes or Rest day
SATURDAY:  Activity for 40-90+ minutes, Strength and stretching.

EXPEDITION COACHING

Preparing for an expedition to an artic giant like Denali , or to any of the Himalayan peaks, takes careful planning, training, and motivation. It's important to control as many variables as possible beforehand so that success becomes more a function of weather and route conditions and less about technical skill, physical ability, nutrition, and team selection. Undoubtedly, you've already spent considerable time preparing financially, mentally, and technically for your climb and have sought out the best guides to help you achieve your goals. A critical piece of this preparation puzzle is training your body physically so it can withstand the rigors of the long, hard days of climbing you're sure to face.

In the past, training for an expedition was mainly left up to the discretion of each climber and results were often less than optimal. Considering the demands of family, work, and life in general, as well as a lack of understanding the physiology of exercise and altitude acclimatization, it's no wonder many members would arrive in base camp ill prepared for the demands of mountaineering.

Fortunately, through the advent of on-line coaching, it's possible to work from virtually anywhere in the world with an experienced coach. Through this interaction you can ensure that your training is individualized and based on sound physiologic principles to make the most out of the time you're able to devote to exercise.

At Mountain Trip we are pleased to have formed an association with Andy Lapkass to fill this very important piece of the expedition preparation puzzle. Andy brings a unique and complete set of talents to aid climbers in their physical training. First of all, he is an experienced mountaineer, guide and climbing instructor with an extensive climbing resume. He has made three successful ascents of Everest and has climbed throughout Alaska , Bolivia , New Zealand , Nepal , Pakistan , and Tibet . Second, Andy has completed Master's level studies in exercise physiology where his emphasis was on ultra-distance and endurance athletics and the physiology of altitude acclimatization. Finally, he is a certified USA Cycling Level III coach and has been educated in the principles of periodization, individualization of training, and on-line coaching through Carmichael Training Systems.

In summary, Andy is an experienced mountaineer with a background in exercise physiology and coaching who is now available to all our clients for guidance.

Currently Andy is available at a variety of levels for one-on-one coaching based on your needs. At each level you'll interact with Andy by phone and/or e-mail to first determine your current fitness level, the amount of time you can devote to training during each week, and the time remaining before your climb. Andy will then develop an individualized and periodized training plan based on your unique situation. Depending on the level at which you enroll, you will have anywhere from 4 to 10 hours per month of interaction with Andy to discuss, review, and modify your training schedule based on your feedback, periodic field tests of performance, and life's changing demands.

For those who are already involved with a coach, personal trainer, or are building their own training plans, Andy is available for hourly phone consultations.

You've already devoted tremendous energy to your climbing goals, so now get signed up with Andy and complete that preparation!

Please contact Andy directly for more information and to discuss coaching options and prices.
Email: alapkass@yahoo.com
Tel: +1- 970-453-4110

West Buttress Expedition Gear List

The following is a list of required gear for climbing the West Buttress with Mountain Trip. Many of the items on the list need to fit you well in order for you to fully enjoy your experience on the mountain. Please plan ahead with equipment purchased for your trip so you can be certain that your gear fits you well. The Kahiltna Glacier is not the place to discover that your pack is too small for your torso, or that your boots give you blisters.

Recommended items reflect the opinions of our guides, but they may not necessarily fit you. They are also weighted toward a couple companies that are industry leaders in exhibiting environmental and social consciousness. Call or email us with any gear questions. We want you to be as prepared as possible for your expedition. Items with ** are optional, but recommended.

• FOOTWEAR
  
  ___ MOUNTAINEERING DOUBLE BOOTS: Acceptable boots for Denali fall into two categories, traditional double boots and boot systems with integrated gaiters. Either variety works well, however the latter versions are lighter and arguably simpler. The goal is to have warm, comfortable feet! Try on a variety of boots as they all fit differently and get the one that fits well. Consider your future mountaineering objectives when purchasing boots as well.
  Recommended System Boots: LOWA "8000 GTX ”, LA SPORTIVA “OLYMPUS MONS EVO ”
  Recommended Double Boots: SCARPA “INVERNO” with High Altitude Liners, LA SPORTIVA "NUPTSE" OR "SPANTIK".
  A great upgrade to any plastic boot are the Denali Liners by Intuition. These are lighter and warmer than almost any stock liners. They are heat molded to fit your feet and are worth every penny.
  *** All double boots need Overboots and Gaiters, including the Spantiks
  ___ OVERBOOTS: Neoprene overboots such as 40 Below Purple Haze are best. O.R. and Wild Country insulated Overboots work well if they fit with your crampons. Supergaiters alone are not warm enough for Denali.
  ___ GAITERS: Full height, such as Black Diamond GTX Frontpoint Gaiter or Outdoor Research “Crocodiles.” Full coverage “Supergaiters” work great as well.
  ___ BOOTIES**: Synthetic or down fill booties. These are great for camp and tent comfort and allow you extra opportunity to dry out your mountain boots.
  
  GLACIER TRAVEL
  
  ___ SNOWSHOES: Atlas Summit Series or the basic MSR Denali both work well, although a nice "upgrade" feature is a heel riser, which really helps make the steeper hills a bit more manageable. 22-25 inch snowshoes will generally work fine.
  ___ SKI POLES: Select a proper length for hiking. Almost any ski pole will do, although adjustable poles work best! Black Diamond Flick Lock poles are recommended as they are less prone to spontaneously collapsing.
  
  CLOTHING
  
  You will need a total of five (5) layers for your torso and four (4) for your legs:
  ___ BASE LAYER: (1 or 2 sets) Synthetic Top and Bottoms such as Light or Mid-Weight Capilene from Patagonia. There are some really nice Merino wool options on the market as well. Patagonia has a nice entry called Wool 2.
  ___ “EXPEDITION WEIGHT” FLEECE: Top and Bottoms made from 100 weight or Powerstretch fleece. A zip t-neck is important for ventilating. Guides' Pick: Patagonia R1 Flash Top or the R1 Flash Hoody.
  ___ STRETCH WOVEN PANTS: We used to consider this layer optional, but this “Soft Shell” layer is becoming indispensible, due to the broad comfort range it provides. Often pants made of Schoeller Dynamic or similar fabrics can be worn all the way to High Camp in lieu of less breathable "hard-shell" pants. Guides' Pick: Patagonia Alpine Guide Pants
  ___ FLEECE OR INSULATED PANTS: This layer must have side zippers! The best options for this layer are thick, “puffy” synthetic or down pants like the Patagonia Micro Puff Pants or Feathered Friends Volant Pants. These can be layered over your shell pants for easier and quicker layer changes.
  ___ PRIMALOFT "PUFFY" JACKET: Size this to fit over your shell. We are fans of the puffy, Primaloft jackets because they are lighter and warmer than fleece and compress down much smaller.
  Guides' Pick: Patagonia Micro Puff Hooded Jacket or the Outdoor Research Chaos Jacket
  ___ SHELL JACKET & PANTS: They should be large enough to go over your pile clothing layers and the pants must have full lenght side zippers. These do not need to be the burliest Gore-Tex pieces you can find! Many people are climbing Denali using lightweight, windproof, water resistant shells.
  ___ EXPEDITION PARKA (WITH HOOD): Marmot, Mountain Hardwear and The North Face all make good parkas, but our Guides' Pick is the Patagonia Down Parka. There are some synthetic options such as the Patagonia D.A.S. Parka and the Wild Things Belay Jacket, however; down is recommended as it is lighter and less bulky.
  ___ VEST**: Fleece, puffy or down vest adds warmth to a light Expedition Parka. (OPTIONAL)
  ___ T-SHIRT**: Synthetic long sleeve shirt for the lower glacier. Synthetics dry faster than cotton!
  ___REGULAR UNDERWEAR: One or two changes. Look for synthetics such as Patagonia Capilene.
  ___ SOCKS: 2 - 4 sets of wool or synthetic medium/heavy weight socks. Make certain your socks fit with your boots!
  ___ GLOVES: Light or medium weight bunting, polypro, Windstopper or even better: Schoeller fabric (one or two pairs.) Guides' Pick: Outdoor Research Vert Gloves
  ___ INSULATED GLOVES: Warm, insulated gloves are the workhorse on Denali. Black Diamond Guide Gloves have removable liners for ease of drying. It's hard to stress how much you'll be wearing these, so do not skimp on this item.
  ___ SUMMIT MITTENS: Thick, warm, non-constricting mittens made of pile, Primaloft or down. Guides' Pick: Outdoor Research Alti Mitts. They aren’t cheap, but are extremely warm. Divide the cost by 10 digits and they're a bargain!
  ___ WARM HAT: One warm hat or two hats of different weights. Wool or pile is fine. Your hat must provide ear protection.
  ___ FACE MASK: Neoprene or Windstopper work equally well.
  ___ SUN HAT: Baseball type or wide brimmed sun hat for the intense sunshine of the lower mountain. You can combine a baseball hat with a bandana for good sun protection
  ___ HAND WARMERS: Bring 8+ sets of these disposable insurance policies.
  ___ GLACIER GLASSES: They must have side protection and filter 100% UVA and UVB rays.
  ___ SKI GOGGLES: For use while traveling during storms or during really cold spells.These must have double lenses and provide 100%UV protection.
  
  PACKS
  
  ___ EXPEDITION PACK: Unfortunately, it is getting harder to find a good expedition-sized back pack. Denali requires a 6000+ cu in. or 90+ liter pack to carry your gear, plus group food & equipment. The Dana Designs Terra Plane, Gregory Denali Pro and Osprey Aether 90 all fit the bill. BE CERTAIN THAT YOUR PACK FITS YOU! Get used to your pack; train with it!
  ___LARGE ZIPPERED DUFFEL: (36-48") for use as a sled bag. Lightweight and inexpensive bags work fine, although if you can find the Patagonia Stellar Black Hole Bag you will be thrilled. It is lightweight and darn near water proof, making it the ideal sled bag!
  
  SLEEPING GEAR
  
  ___ EXPEDITION SLEEPING BAG: Rated to 30 below. Marmot Cwm, Col and Mt Hardwear Ghost are all great bags. Which to choose, down or synthetic? We prefer down bags because they are lighter, more compact, and have a longer lifespan than synthetics, but the new synthetics are getting a lot better. Guides' Pick: Weighing in at just 4 pounds, the Valandre Odin is a -40 degree bag which is also suitable for Antarctica. It's lighter companion, the Freja, is a -22 degree bag that only weighs 3 lbs 6 oz!
  ___ COMPRESSION STUFF SACK: Granite Gear and Outdoor Research are both making nice, lightweight compression sacks. These are essential for sleeping bags and recommended for your summit clothes, such as your parka, mitts and warmest pants, so you might consider bringing two.
  ___ 2 SLEEPING PADS: You need two pads, with one being a closed cell pad such as a Ridge Rest or a Karrimat just in case you poke a crampon through your air mattress. Therm-a-Rest inflatable pads have been among the warmest and most comfortable, but the new Exped pads from Outdoor Research are really nice. Guides' Pick: Exped 7 paired with a Deluxe, Full-length Ridge Rest

ALL EQUIPMENT ON THIS LIST IS AVAILABLE AT AMH IN ANCHORAGE - And you get a 10% discount.
Check out their Web site: alaskamountaineering.com or call 907 272-1811.

Feathered Friends in Seattle will also give you a 10% discount if you tell them you are joining one of our expeditions.

MAKE SURE YOU TRY EVERYTHING BEFORE YOU BRING IT ON DENALI!!
CALL OR EMAIL US WITH YOUR EQUIPMENT QUESTIONS.

"SOME PEOPLE DREAM OF WORTHY ACCOMPLISHMENTS,
WHILE OTHERS STAY AWAKE AND DO THEM."

We make every effort to provide you a fun trip. Our staff will give instructions before each trip and it is important that you listen and follow their instructions. You will assume the responsibility for many decisions affecting your safety during the trip. These activities can be physically demanding with inherent elements of risk and danger beyond our control. We do not assume liability for personal injury or death. You must sign a Release form and go at your own risk. We offer trips requiring various degrees of fitness. We are not qualified to evaluate your fitness so you must evaluate your fitness as appropriate for any given trip. If you are overweight or in poor physical condition, you should consult with your physician before the trip.