DENALI via the WEST
BUTTRESS
2006 celebrated our 30th Anniversary guiding climbers on Denali! We have an unparalleled record of keeping our climbers healthy on the mountain and an excellent success rate. In 2004 we were the only company to reach
the summit of Denali on every scheduled expedition. In 2005, 9 of 11 expeditions stood on the summit, and in 2006, 10 of 14 made it. In 2007,despite a horrendously stormy first six weeks of the season, 9 of our 12 expeditions reached the top!
For climbers wishing to do a non technical, but
physically and mentally challenging climb of Denali, we offer
two options: a round trip climb of the West Buttress
route or a Traverse climb. The duration of these
expeditions is between 16 and 26 days with the Traverse
usually being the longer of the two.
The West Buttress of Denali was pioneered
by Bradford Washburn in 1950. Due to its relative
ease of access in this modern age of Air Taxis,
it has become the route of choice for most climbers.
The route begins at 7,200 feet on the Southeast
Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. It follows the Kahiltna
north before ascending up onto the West Buttress
proper. Though technically not very difficult,
climbers will use a variety of mountaineering techniques
to safely make their way around crevasses and up
moderately steep terrain. The route culminates
on Summit Day with an incredible knife edged ridge
to the highest point in North America.
Heavy packs and the thin air of
altitude at such high latitudes can make the West
Buttress a very physically challenging climb. Extreme
winds, heavy snowfall and arctic cold all conspire
to make any undertaking on Denali very serious.
Experience counts in Alaska and our guides have
been on more Denali expeditions on the mountain than most. We have strict policies on how many Denali expeditions a guide must have guided before leading an expedition for Mountain Trip.
If you are considering joining a guided party,
ask your outfitter how many Denali trips your guide
has been on. It makes a difference.
To view a sample West Buttress Itinerary, please click HERE.
For climbers wishing to polish their skills, we offer short refresher courses that can be scheduled for the days immediately preceeding your Denali expedition. Click HERE for details.
WEST BUTTRESS TRAVERSE
A Traverse climb ascends the West
Buttress route to the summit of Denali and then
descends the spectacular Karsten's Ridge down to
the Muldrow Glacier. This is a fantastic way to
experience more of the mountain. Descending onward
through the Great and Lower Icefalls, climbers
gain McGonagall Pass and head out to the fabled
Wonder Lake. The walk out to Wonder Lake is about
25 miles of rolling terrain and can be done in
one or two days. There is something special about
climbing off the snowy mountain and in to the green
tundra and thick air! Your senses come alive to
new sights and smells. There are several river
crossings that may be difficult or at least exciting.
Climbers who have done the traverse often comment
that the descent was at least as memorable and challenging as reaching the
summit. This is a more physically challenging endeavor
than climbing up and down the West Buttress, so
an extra level of fitness is definitely required.
Denali's West Buttress, West Rib and the South
Face
DENALI
via the WEST RIB
For
the climber looking for a more technical route
on Denali, we offer scheduled expeditions up the
West Rib. Other routes are also available by private
arrangement. Mountain Trip began guiding climbers
up technical routes on Denali in 1982, when we
led a group up the Northwest Buttress for its second ascent.
Additionally, our guides have led expeditions
on the Cassin Ridge, the South Buttress and the
West Rib. We generally offer one or two technical Denali
climbs per season with scheduled trips up the West
Rib.
These routes are only for experienced
mountaineers, as they are both physically and technically
demanding. The climbing involves steep couloirs
and beautiful ridges. Summit day is very demanding,
potentially requiring over 20 hours of climbing.
After returning to high camp from the summit, you will descend via the West
Buttress. We can also offer other options
for the Rib, such as doing it Alpine style or doing
just the Upper Rib variation. Let us know your interests.
Technical routes other than the
West Rib are available by private
arrangement.
Party size on these routes will vary depending on the climb, but tend to be small teams. We love to run these trips and will work with you to make them happen. Write
us for
a specific itinerary, climber qualifications and equipment
lists.
Denali from the North Side, via the Muldrow Glacier
Any climb of Denali is a tremendous undertaking; however in response to a growing number of requests, we are excited to offer the added challenge of attempting the mountain from the North Side in 2008!
We will send two small teams in to climb Denali via the Muldrow Glacier Route. This is the same line of ascent taken by the Sourdough Expedition of 1910, although we will not follow their lead of dragging a 14 foot spruce pole up with us. The North Side of the mountain is a place reserved for the fit and the committed. This is a remote setting to undertake an arctic expedition and it lacks the "safety net" offered by the NPS and the number of climbers on the West Buttress. This is a longer expedition than the West Buttress and is somewhat more technical as well. The rewards for your efforts will be beyond words as tremendous vistas unfold beyond your feet and you tangibly recognize that you are travelling where few have ever trodden.
We plan to send one team in by plane in early May and another, smaller team in by bus in early June. Please contact us for details and a complete itinerary. For the ultra-adventurous, we are also offering a climb of the North Side with a . You can read about our Sourdough Expedition HERE.
Denali via the Cassin Ridge
This slender ridge drops like a plumb line from the summit of Denali, splitting its massive South Face in two. It is the line that immediately captures the eye of climbers when they first see the mountain from the south. "The Cassin" is a legendary route, which has attracted the best alpinists of the day since it was first climbed in 1961 by Ricardo Cassin and members of an Italian climbing club known as the Lecco Spiders. Among experienced alpinists, it has a reputation as the apline climb to do in North America.
The Cassin has only been guided a couple of times. Mountain Trip attempted an early guided climb in the 1980's. We have the beginnings of a strong team assembled to attempt the route in 2008 and are offering a few spots to experienced, fit climbers. This is a serious route and demands the utmost respect. We have not taken the decision to guide it lightly. Any climber who wishes to attempt this route must join us in Southwest Colorado for a few days of training and evaluation during the winter. We have selected our strongest, most qualified guides to lead this climb and will only consider strong, committed climbers to join the team.
Please contact us if you would like to climb the most striking line on Denali.
Denali
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
A: You're right,
the W. Buttress isn't too technical, but it does
have a few steeper or exposed sections that require
fixed ropes or running belays. If you haven't done a lot of climbing, we highly
recommend taking a course that will teach you crevasse rescue, winter camping
and basic rope skills. The more prepared you are
when you begin an expedition, the
higher the quality your experience will be. Fitness is very important, not
only because of the overall work load, but because
being stronger helps you maintain
control through the more exposed bits.
A: There's no
getting around it, climbing Denali is hard work.
You will be carrying a 40-60+ lb backpack and pulling
a
30-50 lb sled on the lower glacier for
up to four or more hours a day. Higher up you will need to be able to
negotiate fairly steep terrain with a 50+ lb pack.
A good
combination of aerobic and strength
training is needed to prepare for an expedition. Summit day can be long
and though our packs are fairly light, people
often call it the toughest day of their lives. Look over our suggenstions for how to prepare for a Denali expedition.
A: We pack food
to spend up to 21 days on the mountain. With a
day on either end for travel between Anchorage
and Talkeetna,
you need to plan on 24 days in Alaska.
Most trips run 16-18 days, but you must plan your itinerary around the
longest scenario.
A: Mountain Trip
is known for having outstanding food quality and
selection on our expeditions. Our guides pride
themselves
on their mountain culinary skills. Menus can be tailored for those
with discriminating palettes, but may contain
such entrees as Pad Thai, Tortellini al Pesto and Burrito night for
dinner and French Toast, Omelets with bacon and Chilaquiles for breakfast. Unlike some guide services, Mountain Trip provides all your food on our Denali expeditions, including all your lunches. If you have some favorite, "comfort foods", please feel free to bring them along.
A: Trust us on
this one. Though you may get a nice, balmy summit
day; there is an equal chance that you will set
off from high
camp wearing every stitch of clothes on
that list. Please bring all that is required and call or email
us with any questions regarding layering systems.
A: We will provide
all the group gear, such as tents, stoves, ropes,
snow pickets and sleds. See our equipment list for gear
you will need to provide. We have
certain items available for rental and these are noted on the
equipment list.
A: Most of our
West Buttress expeditions carry snowshoes for use
when there is deep
fresh snow or for when the glacier is melting out and the trail
is
sloppy. While skis probably give you a greater safety margin during glacier travel, snowshoes are convenient in that
they are lightweight and easy to use. For experienced
skiers we offer certain departure dates for Denali ski expeditions.
We caution anyone considering the ski option
to be realistic about their abilities. Skiing
with a full pack and a sled requires a different set of skills
than shredding down the black diamond mogul
run
at your
local resort.
A: It helps to know what it feels like to be at altitude; but it is not necessary to have been up high before attempting Denali. All of our expeditions
follow carefully planned out acclimatization schedules.
The vast majority of people climbing with
us do not experience high altitude
illnesses, due to our conservative rate of ascent and the
attention our guides give to each climber regarding
their levels of hydration, eating and work loads.
The reality is that altitude illnesses are
highly
subjective and can present themselves
in anyone regardless of the number of times you have been
at altitude.
We can minimize your chances of getting
sick by following a safe rate of ascent, but cannot
guarantee that no one will suffer ill effects from altitude.
A: The trip cost
includes all regular transportation from Anchorage
to the Glacier and back to Anchorage, including
your scheduled round trip shuttle to and from Talkeetna and
your Air Taxi flight to and from the glacier. We're proud to be flying primarily with Talkeetna Air Taxi.
Spider Clouds above the West Buttress.
"
Mountain Trip is an authorized concessionaire of
Denali National Park and Preserve"
