Mt. Foraker 17,400 feet

We led the first successful guided expedition up Mount Foraker in 1980. The Southeast Ridge is one of the finest alpine routes in the Alaska Range. The route involves steep snow climbing, interspersed with ice pitches and exposed, cornice ridges. All this makes for very spectacular and scenic climbing. Unfortunately, changing conditions on the route have kept us from attempting it in recent years.

In the spring of 1996 we began leading climbers up the most popular line on Mount Foraker, the Sultana or Northeast Ridge. It is a longer route than the Southeast Ridge but harbors less objective hazards. This is a challenging route with a big summit day that demands respect.

We fly into the Southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and set forth across the Kahiltna proper to make our base camp at the base of 12,800’ Mount Crossen. A steep entrance gulley leads to a snowy ridge that climbs to a dramatic camp perched high above the Kahiltna Glacier. Above this camp, steeper steps of snow and ice are encountered as we climb up and over Mount Crossen to make Camp 2. The long ridge line that connects Crossen with Mount Foraker presents climbers with a mix of steep steps, wild cornices and knife-edged ridges. Summit day is a physically challenging ascent of the sublime Northeast Ridge, negotiating crevasses and continuously steep cramponing. This route should only be considered by very fit climbers with solid crampon and ice axe technique.

Fit, experienced climbers interested in a first ascent on Foraker in mid May, 2007 should give Todd a call in the office. We'd tell you more, but someone else might beat us to it....

Mt. Foraker: May 2, 2008

3-4 Climbers/ 16 days

Cost: $3800

Mt. Huntington 12,400 feet
West Face Couloir

Mount Huntington is arguably the most beautiful peak in the Alaska Range. At 12,400’ it is not as high as its loftier neighbors, but offers big challenges for technically proficient climbers. The West Face Couloir, also known as the Nettle-Quirk route ascends a prominent line of ice up the middle of the west face. Steep snow leads to even steeper ice amidst the beautiful granite of this massive wall. A high camp allows weary climbers a night of rest before attempting the summit via the upper portion of the French Ridge. For the strong climber with good steep-ice climbing skills, this route is world class!

Mt. Huntington: Trips By Request

4 - 10 day trips

Cost: Call for price

Mt. Hunter 14,500 feet

Mt. Hunter has been gotten more notice over the past few years. On its walls and ridges lie some very challenging and beautiful climbing. All of the climbs on this mountain are physically and technically demanding, as they are a mix of rock, ice and snow climbing. We have led numerous successful expeditions on the West Ridge since 1982 and have led attempts on other routes.

The West Ridge is a true classic and deserves its status as one of Steck & Roper's "50 Classic Climbs". Gary Bocarde did the first ascent of a variation of this route and we offer climbs up both the Bocarde Variation and the original Becky route. Experienced, fit climbers with find this route an exhilarating challenge.

Mt. Hunter April 26 and May 9th, 2008

3-4 climbers / 8-14 days

Cost: $3100

The Mooses Tooth 10,300 feet

The granite mass of The Mooses Tooth dominates the Ruth Glacier Ampitheater. Mountain Trip founder, Gary Bocarde put up one of the most audacious lines of its time with his first ascent of the Moose Antler Route on the SW Face in 1974 to make the 2nd ascent of the peak. Just up glacier from this historic route lies one of the truly accessible plums of the Alaska Range; the Ham and Eggs Couloir.

Ham and Eggs follows an icy line of weakness through the massive granite South Face of The Mooses Tooth. This is the real deal; solid ice climbers will find themselves challenged by steep ice and often by mixed stretches on the route. We try to climb this one in a single push, so train hard for a pretty long day.

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Mooses Tooth: April-Early May

1-2 climbers / 5-7 days

Call for price