An
Alternative Experience with Mountain Trip
 Truly the “Roof of the Americas,” Cerro
Aconcagua, at 22,834 ft. (6,959 meters) is
not only the highest mountain in South America,
but
also the highest peak outside of Asia. The
name Aconcagua is most likely a derivative
of the Incan words “Akon Cahuak,” meaning
Stone Sentinel. Located on the Chilean-
Argentine border, it is easily accessed through
the Argentine city of Mendoza.
Aconcagua was first climbed in 1897 by Matthias
Zurbriggen, a Swiss mountain guide. The Zurbriggen route (Normal Route), which climbs the peak by way
of the Horcones Valley from the northwest, has become the most popular route
of ascent. A second, non-technical route known as the “Standard” or “Falso
de Polacos” (False Polish- so named for its proximity to the Polish Glacier)
route, has grown in popularity over the years. This route approaches the
mountain from the northeast, via the Vacas Valley. These two routes see
the vast majority of climbers on the mountain, and though they are not difficult
from a technical climbing aspect, the extreme combination of high altitude,
winds, and cold temperature make them a challenge for any mountaineer.
 Recently, an alternative to these two routes
has proven itself to be the route of choice
up Aconcagua. In 1996, Mountain
Trip Guides helped pioneer a route from the
north, accessed from the Vacas Valley, which is no more technical
than the Normal or Standard routes, yet is incomparably more scenic, and sees
a small fraction of the traffic. Known as the “Valle de Guanacos” (Valley
of Guanacos) by some, or “La Quebrada Vieja” (The Old Canyon) by
locals, we call it the Upper Vacas Route, for the simple fact that we follow
the Vacas Valley to its headwaters where we put in our Base Camp. From
there we climb to our High Camp at “White Rocks” (“Piedras
Blancas”) and descend the Normal Route, thus completing a traverse of
the mountain.
Why
is the Upper Vacas Route THE route of choice?
 1. . We use the
lowest Base Camp on the mountain (12,300 ft.)
and make four higher camps. Each camp
is almost exactly 2,000 feet above the previous
one. As we double carry between camps
(carry extra gear and food to the next camp
one day, move to that camp the next) this enables
us
to maintain a textbook average rate of 1,000 feet of ascent per day. Acclimatization
is of utmost importance to succeed at high altitude and we feel
that one of the keys to our success has been our acclimatization
schedule.
2. . As Aconcagua’s popularity has increased over the years,
so have logistical concerns such as obtaining potable water and disposing of
human waste at camps. The Upper Vacas Route has only recently been discovered
and sees much fewer teams each year. We have made it a
priority to maintain the sanctity of our water sources and
to minimize our
impact along the route.
3. . Until recently, it was not
uncommon to see no other
teams for over a week as we made our way up the relatively
untravelled north side of
the mountain. This has changed as word has gotten around about the benefits of this route. Rumor has it that there may even be an official "Basecamp" set up for 2005/06, but there will stil be far less climbers on our side of the mountain than on the other non-technical routes.
4. . The Upper Vacas Route ascends
a series of glacially sculpted valleys that have been carved from the northern
slopes of Aconcagua and its satellite peak, Cerro Ameghino. The result
is a sensation of remoteness as you climb through pristine-feeling valleys, each
with its own character. Each of our camps has a different “feel”,
with unique views of glaciers and peaks not seen by most
climbers.
Why descend the Normal Route?
After summiting from our
White Rocks high camp, it is much shorter
to descend the Normal Route to the tent
city at
the Plaza de Mulas
Base
Camp, than
to re-trace our route. We spend the night in Plaza de
Mulas following our 4-6 hour descent, and have our expedition
gear
ferried out on mules the next
day, allowing
us to enjoy the walk out with only light daypacks.
Why go with Mountain Trip?
Mountain Trip guides helped establish the Upper Vacas Route. We know it
better than most and feel so strongly that this is THE BEST non-technical route
on the mountain that we have committed to only guiding this route. All of our expeditions are lead by our our lead guides who have done multiple ascents of Aconcagua
and have great relationships with the local outfitters
and the park rangers. We have raised the bar on high altitude cuisine and across the board service.
Nowadays, there are a number of low cost alternative guide services working on Aconcagua. Some of them do a pretty good job, but we believe that the level of training and client care that our guides are able to provide is well worth the additional expenses incurred by having to fly them down to Argentina and paying them the salaries that they deserve. If you look at your expedition as an investment, consider the fact that we will work with you to prepare in the months preceding your climb and supply you with the very best service and highly trained guides on the mountain, so as to help ensure that you get the very best return on your investment.
A Sample
Itinerary:
 Day 1: Our group will meet in the small, lively city of Mendoza, Argentina,
capital of the world renowned Argentine wine country. The guides will check
everyone’s gear and you can pick up any last
minute necessities.
Day 2: We drive to the ski resort of Penitentes where we will organize
our gear for the mule drivers to carry in on our three day approach to Base Camp. We’ll
eat and sleep one last night in a hotel at 9,000
ft. before hitting the trail in the morning.
Day 3: After a short drive to the trail head, we set out from the mouth
of the Vacas Valley. About six hours of hiking through a desert valley
(reminiscent of parts of the Grand Canyon) will get us to “Pampas de Lenas,” our
first camp on our approach, located at about 9,000
ft.
Day 4: A similar day of hiking with day packs rewards us with a fantastic
view of Aconcagua! We’ll make camp at 10,000 ft., at the junction
of the Relinchos and Vacas Valleys, where we can look right up at perhaps the
most magnificent aspect of the “Stone Sentinel.”
Day 5: These first two camps are the same as those for climbers approaching
the “Standard,” or Polish Glacier routes. From this camp, known
as “Casa de Piedras,” those teams will follow the Relinchos Valley
as it climbs steeply to the bustling Plaza Argentina Base Camp. We, however,
will continue up the Vacas Valley for one more day. Breathtaking views
of the tumbling Vacas Glacier, stunning seldom seen peaks and huge waterfalls
await us as we reach the head of the Vacas Valley. A
roaring gorge makes for a gateway of sorts
to our secluded Base Camp at 12,200
ft.
Day 6: We start climbing! From here we shoulder our loads and carry
gear, food and fuel to Camp 1 at 14,200ft., cache our supplies, and return to
Base Camp to spend the night. This will be our strategy for the upper camps
on the mountain. We “make a carry” to the next camp, thereby
helping our bodies to acclimatize to that camp’s altitude, but return to
the previous camp to sleep. This enables
us to move the quantity of supplies needed
for our expedition
without carrying ridiculously
huge packs, and it
puts us on an optimum average acclimatization
gain of about 1,000 ft. per day.
Day 7: We again climb through the impressive head of this lower valley
and into an upper, “hanging valley.” En route we may
come across our first fields of “penitentes;” bizarre, exaggerated
sun-cupped snow fields that form snow “stalagmites” up to 10-12 feet
high. Our Camp 1 overlooks the rugged Gussfeldt Glacier, which glistens
like a field of diamonds in the setting sun. We
also have views of the summit of Aconcagua,
towering almost 9,000 feet above us.
Day 8: We’ll carry
loads to Camp 2 at 16,000 ft., again encountering
penitentes, and, depending on
the time of year, either
cascading waterfalls
or inspiring ice hoses.
Day9: Move on up to Camp 2. This
camp is higher than most of the valley walls,
so our views are
growing.
Day 10: Load carrying to Camp 3 at 18,000 ft. will take us past more fields
of penitentes, and the 80 foot “Tower of Power” that awaits some
hearty soul’s first ascent. **
(Often we take an extra acclimatization
day about this time, however
this will
be determined based
on how the group
is doing)
Day 11: Move up to Camp 3. The views here are staggering! The
summit of Cerro Ameghino is just to our
east, to the north we can see the 22,000
ft. Cerro Mercedario dominating
the horizon and the
array of peaks we had been
looking up at from our previous camps
are now below us.
Day 12: Above camp, we
climb over the remnants of an ancient glacier
and
continue in a rising traverse
through a surreal landscape
of multi-colored
rock
towers as we make our final carry to
our high camp at White Rocks.
Day 13: Up we go to White Rocks, which is perched on the north ridge of
Aconcagua at around 20,000 ft. From
here we can look down upon the upper
camps of the Normal Route and
look up at our goal for the
next morning-the
summit.
Day 14: Summit day! A pre-dawn start is necessary for this, the longest
day of our trip. We’ll work our way up, past the wreckage of the
old “Independencia” hut, to a rising traverse into the broad gully
that leads to the summit; the “Canaleta.” Depending on conditions,
ice axes, crampons and ropes might be necessary along the traverse. Above
the Canaleta, we’ll skirt along the south ridge, with views down the tremendous
South Face of the mountain, to the final rocky steps up to the summit! Save some
energy for the descent, keeping in mind that the summit is only halfway today. Round
trip time can take anywhere from 7-12
hours, depending on conditions.
Day 15: After sleeping in a bit, we’ll break camp, load up, and drop
down the Normal Route to the Plaza de Mulas Base Camp. Three to five hours
down hill and you can drop that pack for the last time, for here we’ll
hook up with our mule drivers, who will deliver our gear to the trail head the
next day. Plaza de Mulas is a veritable tent city with restaurants, taverns
and satellite phone service. There’s
even a hotel on the far side of the valley!
Day 16: The hike out the Horcones Valley goes relatively quickly as it’s
mostly a gradual descent and we only have our daypacks to carry. The valley
is huge and fascinating, both aesthetically as well as geologically. At
the mouth we’ll check out with
the park rangers and be driven back to
the hotel at Penitentes for showers
and a celebratory meal!
Day 17: Back to Mendoza. Though
it is sometimes possible to change flights
in order to fly out this day,
it is worth taking
some time to explore
this interesting city.
: Airport Transfer to hotel in Mendoza, Welcome Dinner, two nights accomodation in hotels in Mendoza all scheduled land transportation between Mendoza and Penitentes, hotel in Penitentes, all food and group gear on the climb, scheduled mule support to Basecamp and from Plaza de Mulas back to the trailhead, and Mountain Trip's expert American guides.
: Mountaineering Permit fee for Aconcagua Provincial Park, additional meals in Mendoza.
Looking over the Pacific Ocean from High Camp
***Special thanks to our guide Drew Ludwig for the use of his photos. All photos are copywrite by Drew Ludwig, 2007 |
