Denali (Mt. McKinley) 20,320 ft / 6,194 m

Experience is paramount
2010 was our 35th year leading guided Denali expeditions. We have learned a thing or two about taking care of our climbers over the years and this is reflected in our success rates on Denali, in our ability to attract and retain the most experienced guides on the mountain, and in the extremely positive feedback we receive from our clients.

Between 2004 and 2009 (we'll update after the 2010 season is finished), 59 of our 67 Denali expeditions reached the summit and in 2008, all but one of our 22 Denali expeditions stood on top. Certainly, we have benefited from good weather, but our success is also based in the experience levels of our guides. Our guidelines for who we allow to lead our expeditions are more stringent than any other Denali guide service, as we require our lead guides to have a minimum of five Denali expeditions under their boots before they can lead one of our expeditions. We have an almost 100% guide return rate from year to year and have guides with 10, 20 and even 30 years of Denali experience leading our climbs. We love what we do and it shows.

It’s personal…
We provide personal service and attention from the first time you contact us through the months of preparation before your climb, and we provide the highest quality services while you are climbing Mount McKinley. Our office staff are Denali veterans who are easy to talk to about all things big and cold.

Which route?
For climbers wishing to attempt a less technical, but physically and mentally challenging climb of Denali, we offer two options-- a round trip climb of the West Buttress route or a Traverse climb that ascends the West Buttress and descends to the north via the Muldrow Glacier route. These expeditions are endurance events, not sprints, and last between 16 and 26 days. Experienced climbers seeking more technical routes on steeper and varied terrain might consider the West Rib, the Northwest Buttress or the iconic Cassin Ridge. Our Sourdough Expedition is extremely challenging and accesses the north side of Denali via dogsled in early April to climb the Muldrow Glacier route. 2010 marks the 100th anniversary of the first ascent of Denali's North Summit via this route. We also climb the Muldrow later in the season and descend the Buttress for a "Reverse Traverse."

Denali Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: What level of mountaineering proficiency should I have before making the trip? The West Buttress didn't look overly technical.

A: You're right, the W. Buttress isn't too technical, but it does have a few steeper or exposed sections that require fixed ropes or running belays. If you haven't done a lot of climbing, we highly recommend taking a course that will teach you crevasse rescue, winter camping and basic rope skills. The more prepared you are when you begin an expedition, the higher quality your experience will be. Fitness is very important, not only because of the overall work load, but because being stronger helps you maintain control through the more exposed bits.

Q: What level of fitness is needed to climb Denali?

A: There's no getting around it, climbing Denali is hard work. You will be carrying a 40-60+ lb backpack and pulling a 30-50 lb sled on the lower glacier for up to four or more hours a day. Higher up you will need to be able to negotiate fairly steep terrain with a 50+ lb pack. A good combination of aerobic and strength training is needed to prepare for an expedition. Summit day can be long and though our packs are fairly light, people often call it the toughest day of their lives. Look over our suggestions for how to prepare for a Denali expedition.

Q: How much time do I need to plan on for a Denali expedition?

A: We pack food to spend up to 22 days on the mountain. With a day on either end for travel between Anchorage and Talkeetna, you need to plan on 24 days in Alaska. Most trips run 16-18 days, but you must plan your itinerary around the longest scenario.

Q: What is the food like on an expedition?

A: Mountain Trip is known for having outstanding food quality and selection on our expeditions. Our guides pride themselves on their mountain culinary skills. Menus can be tailored for those with discriminating palettes, but may contain such entrees as Pad Thai, Tortellini al Pesto and Burrito night for dinner and French toast, Omelets with bacon and Chilaquiles for breakfast. Unlike some guide services, Mountain Trip provides all your food on our Denali expeditions, including all your lunches. If you have some favorite "comfort foods," such as a particular energy bar or grandma's secret recipe cookies, please feel free to bring them along.

Q: Do I really need all those clothes on the equipment list? I can't imagine wearing all those layers!

A: Trust us on this one. Though you may get a nice, balmy summit day, there is an equal chance that you will set off from high camp wearing every stitch of clothes on that list. Please bring all that is required and call or email us with any questions regarding layering systems.

Q: What gear would be provided by Mountain Trip?

A: We will provide all the group gear, such as tents, stoves, ropes, snow pickets and sleds. See our equipment list for gear you will need to provide. We have certain items available for rental and these are noted on the equipment list.

Q: What about skis vs. snowshoes for the lower glacier?

A: Most of our West Buttress expeditions carry snowshoes for use when there is deep fresh snow or for when the glacier is melting out and the trail is sloppy. Snowshoes are convenient in that they are light and easy to use. For experienced skiers we offer certain departure dates for Denali ski expeditions. We caution anyone considering the ski option to be realistic about his or her abilities. Skiing with a full pack and a sled requires a different set of skills than shredding down the black diamond mogul run at your local resort.

Q: I've never been to high altitudes before; is this reason for concern?

A: It helps to know what it feels like to be at altitude, but it is not necessary to have been up high before attempting Denali. All of our expeditions follow carefully planned out acclimatization schedules. The vast majority of people climbing with us do not experience high altitude illnesses due to our conservative rate of ascent and the attention our guides give to each climber regarding their levels of hydration, eating and work loads. The reality is that altitude illnesses are highly subjective and can present themselves in anyone regardless of the number of times you have been at altitude. We can minimize your chances of getting sick by following a safe rate of ascent, but cannot guarantee that no one will suffer ill effects from altitude.

Q: Does the trip cost include the Air Taxi?

A: The trip cost includes all regular transportation from Anchorage to the glacier and back to Anchorage, including your scheduled round trip shuttle to and from Talkeetna and your Air Taxi flight to and from the glacier. We're proud to be flying primarily with Talkeetna Air Taxi.

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